Hello Ice

The Arctic is dry, and when the wind doesn’t blow it is so dry you almost don’t notice the cold. The wind is the persistent one that always makes sure you know it is there.

Goodbye Barrow

I made it to the ship. A landing crafted stormed the beaches of Barrow and picked me and the other Coasties up. After climbing the Jacob’s ladder and struggling out of my dry suit I found my room. The passageways are bit like a mousetrap with out the cheese. I love cheese. We have been steaming since last night and today we passed some ice. It was a pretty sight seeing all that ice floating on seawater. I would upload photos, but as you can imagine connectivity is an issue. More to follow. Tomorrow the scientist start their bear hunt. They are going to track them down from the GPS collars that are on them, tranquilize them with a rifle shot from a helicopter and conduct some studies on the ice.

A warm day in the arctic

Today was an especially lovely day in the arctic. Don't get me wrong, the temperature only peaked at 33 degrees, but it was dry with no wind, and all together fine. What the Irish would call a soft day.
Nothing extra ordinary happened today, aside from the weather. I woke up, ate chex circle, took photos, ironed out the details about getting underway, took more photos, ate lunch, took more photos, drank a hot chocolate, took more photos, ate dinner, processed photos, worked out, uploaded photos, and wrote on my blog. Yup, you are up-to-date.

Polar Bears

Polar Bears. Do you know what is scarier than a Polar Bear, cause I don’t. They are, as I have been informed the largest land predator on Earth, and they happen to be visiting Barrow around the same time I am. I have had my bear briefing, but as thorough as that half hour video tape was, I just don’t feel that prepared to confront a bear. They say if you see a curious bear you are suppose to wave your arms slowly above your head and identify myself. Can you image Pam waving her mitts above her head, and saying, “Hello Mr. P. Bear, I am Pam. Can I take your picture?” I am not going to lie. I am not that brave. If I see a polar bear when I am out with someone I’ll probably trip them for bear food while I run for sanctuary.

Alaska's warmth

I have found no end to the warmth I have experienced here in Alaska. The sense of teamwork, generosity and cooperation is without end, and it is without a second thought. Any concern I have had has been met with response, any need, provided for, and every smile given, returned. The natives are kind, but there is something more. I think it is something deeper, more fundamental. I think it is derived from survival instinct. In any event, the humble town of Barrow and its outlying points have resonated with me, and it is probably more than a little naive to believe that all of Alaska is like this, but it is a definite welcome breath from pretense of home.

Top of the World

Oakland to Seattle. Seattle to Anchorage. Anchorage to Fairbanks. Fairbanks to Barrow. Barrow to the Top of the World. Well I am here now. Today's travels were rather uneventful. It started at the front desk, when I went to check my bag in. Apparently my bag weighted more than the limit of 50 lbs., registering a hearty 67lbs on the old scale, but that was arbitrary because it was of absolutely of no consequence. My bag was checked in all the same. Aside from the plane rides taking a long time they were rather dull. That is until we took off for Barrow. When a Native Alaskan took a seat next me, and thrust her hand in my direction, introducing herself as Loo, could be Lue, can't say for sure which. Anyway, she gabbed and gabbed, and had the most unpleasant habit of spitting when she talked. She drank two beers and educated me on how she is not allowed to drink at her village, and I think the two beers went straight to her head. She started lecturing me on the importance of planning for survival, and being prepared for the worst. If it wasn't for the alcohol I would think that maybe a cultural way to think, and it very well maybe, but it came across as incoherent ramblings. I later saw her at the hotel front desk being asked to leave for being intoxicated.

As the plane neared Barrow I looked out the window and saw the way we were flying above the clouds. They lay below us as white puffs of cotton blanketing the ocean below. It was really beautiful. The plane eventually dipped into the clouds and the plane was consumed by gray, and when we broke from the dense fog the sea appeared. There it was the Arctic Ocean. Lovely, and various shades of blue. There was the muddied blue, that yielded to purple and lighter blues, and off in the distance the water was turquoise as it melded with the horizon. It was a site, and choppy as well. Loo informed me that there must have been an North wind, judging from the sea state.

When I got off the plane I was smacked by cold. An Air Force master stg. gave me a ride from the tiny airport to my hotel. I went to dinner at a Mexican restaurant in the Arctic Circle, and had Italian lasagna. It wasn't half bad and not to expensive considering the most expensive salad was over 26 dollars.

After a days of prep. and hours of weary travel, I finally made it. Watch out bears, I am coming to get you.

Gear, Do I have enough?

I can't sleep. I keep thinking about yaktrax and marine wool and long underwear and polypropylene. I can't stop thinking about if I will be warm enough, to warm, the right sunglasses, enough lens, to much weight, not enough clothes.

Yaktrax are pretty cool by the way. They are rubber slings that go around the sole of your boots. The rubber is wrapped with metal coils to give you good traction on the snow.

What I am going to miss

I am going to miss the Rascal.

I am going to miss the Mark.

Gear Collection

Yesterday I was able to nail down some hard details about my trip. I spoke with the National Geographic Videographer I would be working with, Greg Marshall , and found out the purpose of our little adventure (we will be telling the story of how scientist recapture bears that have already be radio tagged, and how that data is analyzed and used). I also booked my very long, very expensive plane ticket that connects twice, once in Seattle, once in Anchorage, before finally touching down in Barrow, Alaska. In addition, and perhaps most importantly, I learned what gear I needed to bring for the trip. I purchased these beauts. for a pretty penny from REI today. I also snagged three layers of gloves, to keep my digits from falling off, boot socks, long johns, and not one but two hats with ear flaps (you could never be to careful). I would complain, but how can you complain about buying gear for a trip of a life time. Plus there is an unforeseen bonus of buying all this, you get to tell everyone in the store that you are going to the North Pole to film polar bears.